충청북 괴산군 · natural crag
화양계곡 학소대암장
natural crag in 충청북 괴산군.
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- Address
- 화양동길, 화양리, 청천면, 괴산군, 충청북도, 28059, 대한민국
- Climbing styles
- natural crag
About this crag
Four sketchy routes put up in 1980 on the left wall of this "named" rock, one of the 8 scenic sights of Hwayang Valley. The middle routes are 10a, and on either side is a 5.9; all are 15 meters. 2 bolts/fixed gear (one on the far right 9) supplement the trad gear needed to protect the cracks. Vertical rock with some vertical and horizontal cracks, etc. . . very rainy when I was in the valley, so I didn't get too close or too good pictures:( Nearby (in particular when you cross the 2nd bridge) and scattered throughout the valley are numerous short bluffs that can be climbed with trad gear and/or top-roped. Also, several good boulders (clean; good top-outs or vertical traverses; decent landings) were apparent, with more possibilities if you leave the paved trail to explore. Climbing Grades: 9 - 10 Type: Rock Climb Style: Traditional
Getting there
402-2 Hwayang-ri, Cheongcheon-myeon, Goesan-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do From the N (Seoul) Jungbu Expressway 35 and exit at Jeungpyeong I.C, Jeungpyeong-eup -Take local road 592 east which becomes National Road 37 at Buheung. Go right on 32 and follow signs to Hwayang Valley (Hwayang-dong Valley). From Cheongju, head E of 512, heading right on 32 through Miwon and 12k more to Gubang. A right on 575 and a left on 32 at Cheongcheon to the Valley. Via public transportation: from Cheongju busses leave the Inner-city Terminal for Hwayang-dong Valley, 32k east, and take about an hour. The road through the valley is flat and bricked. . . making the 3ks entrance to exit an easy walk. You can drive about 1/3 of the way--if you are staying at one of the local minbaks (they extend from the entrance to around Chaeunsa). . . putting you minutes from Haksodae. A giant sign, picnic area and bridge mark Haksodae. A comprehensive contour map of Songnisan, of which HWAYANG VALLEY is a small part, can be found at: http://www.npa.or.kr/songni/eng/nature/images/songni_map.gif The red writing below "Songnisan" is Hwayang Valley. Haksodae is on this map.
Before you visit
Old routes; potentially loose rock; a precarious river crossing (depends on river level. . . but sport sandals recommended) or a steep hike up an around if you cross the bridge (in which case good approach shoes). . . nearby routes are generally easy access. The river is safe in places, but there are deep spots and it has the potential for high water. Heed the signs and locals-- there are plenty of spots to cool off, or wash off.
Recommended equipment
Bring what you've got. . . a 50 meter rope will do. Some horizontal cracks to plug as well as vertical.
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