충청남 태안군 · natural crag
태안 학암포해벽
natural crag in 충청남 태안군. Find information for trad.
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- Address
- 옥파로, 방갈리, 태안군, 충청남도, 대한민국
- Climbing styles
- trad
About this crag
Very gneiss rock--very very solid for sea cliffs, from pretty much vertical to very overhanging. Most if not all the routes have overhanging starts, but several routes finish under the roofs. . . There are twelve sport routes-- the easier ones are on the right. Features vary from faces, roofs, cracks and overhangs, with great friction and pumpy cruxes. Climbing Grades: 8 - 12 Type: Rock Climb Style: Sport
Getting there
From Taean (W of Seosan on route32) head N on 603, branching left on 634, following the signs to the beach (pretty much the end of the line, about 22k N of Taean) There are busses from Taean terminal to the beach; the schedule as of July 2008 is posted under navigational photos (it has the number for the terminal as well; double-checking recommended!) There were a few (summer?) scheduled busses from Cheonan. It would be a pretty expensive taxi ride! The cliffs are visible N of the beach (not so much the climbing cliffs as the ones next to them). . . depending on tide you can walk around (sketchy with gear). . . the easier way is to drive behind the cliffs on the paved road. There's a pullout on the left (beach) side, with an obvious trail going up. Follow the trail, keeping left at the abandoned concrete building, pass several smaller concrete structures. You can see some anchors at the top, then head way left and around and down to the base.
Parking
It would be a pretty expensive taxi ride!
Public transport
It would be a pretty expensive taxi ride!
Before you visit
The routes were put up in summer 2006 (Korean Bwanteo Club), so the bolts seem solid and are pretty shiny, (though some are beginning to show signs of rust. . . inevitable given the location); the webbing anchors might use some back-up. The anchor for one of the easier climbs (r) is set back a ways, and we found it best for TRing to belay from the top, using a ropebag to reduce the friction on the rope over the lip. Routes should be backclipped for TRing as the potential for the climber to peel and swing (beautifully over the ocean!) is great, but the base is variable and we saw a few folks almost taken out! The aproach trail has several trenches/holes you could twist an ankle in. There is a short jump to get to the base over a pretty deep chasm. The cliffs get some strong winds and rough weather, so the gear here should be checked seasonally. Watch out where you drive/park. . . we dug/pushed 2 cars out of the sand trap! There are fishhooks left around on the rocks and sand. It's tempting to go barefoot on the beach, but watch for these! We picked up several by the climbing area.
Recommended equipment
8 draws (plus some for the anchors if you're TRing/lowering will get you up all routes except one, which has 11 bolts?! The longest routes are 15m.
등록된 루트
- "Jason's Crack...Wait Not Big Enough"5.8
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