완주 할매바위

About this crag

There are about 2 dozen climbs on this protruding rock face. Most of the climbs are from 5.10 to 5.12. The rock is limestone and a good portion of it is overhanging. Most of the routes are less than 15 meters high with a few exceptions. Most of the rock is of good quality, but some climbs have some loose rock as well as the only multi-pitch climb. In sum, pumpy, overhanging, juggy, limestone climbs similar to climbs in Thailand or, a little closer to home, Seonunsan. Climbing Grades: 9 - 13 Type: Rock Climb Style: Sport

Getting there

From Jeongeup, head towards Seonunsan National Park on highway 22. Then you pass through the tiny town of Heung Deok. At the end of the town, turn right at the 'Y'. Head towards Gochang. Eventually you will pass a lake/reservoir on your left. Shortly after that hwy 22 takes a sharp turn to the right and heads towards Seounsan. Don't go right. Stay straight and after about 2km you will come to a bridge. Take a left BEFORE the bridge. Drive down that road about 500 meters and take a left at the Asan Garden rstaurant. The climbing wall is behind the restaurant and pond.

Parking

From Jeongeup, head towards Seonunsan National Park on highway 22.

Before you visit

There are a few climbs that have some loose rock, but nothing significant. The one multi-pitch climb there (about 3 pitches) is full of loose rock and is dangerous for anyone climbing below. I don't recommend this climb because of the the loose rock and it is not aesthically pleasing or enjoyable. There are no anchors to fix the belayer to if there is a big weight difference between the climber and the belayer.

Recommended equipment

A set of 10-12 draws and a 50 meter rope should get you to the top of all the climbs.

등록된 루트

• "Cave Scramble"5.7+
• Expert5.10a
• For Beginner5.9

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