강원 속초시 · natural crag
설악산 장군봉
natural crag in 강원 속초시.
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- Address
- 대포동, 속초시, 강원특별자치도, 대한민국
- Climbing styles
- natural crag
About this crag
Overhanging granite face (with some features/cracks); all routes on the "red face" require significant aid climbing (OK, one was freed by Son Chung-Jun and Son Sang-Won), though primarily AO bolt ladders. It's overhanging and very exposed. Bolts and anchors are solid and slings seem to be changed fairly regularly, but the routes are used often and the slings are "aided on", so some extra slings and a knife might not be a bad idea. There are 4 routes on the face, from left to right, 1) KyoDae "take turns" p1 12b/AO,25m p2 AO bolt ladder,30m p3 AO,15m p4 15m scramble to the top. 2)Crony A1 p1 35m bolt ladder, p2 20m bolt ladder, p3 20m bolt ladder, p4 25m scramble w/4 bolts 3) DokJu A1 p1 35m bolt ladder AO, p2 25m bolt ladder, p3 30m scramble to top (route goes right from the first belay station staying on the obvious easier bolt ladder!) 4)Echo p1 2.11c 20m, p2 AO 30m (the true echo goes left near the top of the pitch to the ledge left of DokJu), p3 A2 20m, p4 20m to the top. If you go straight and just left of DokJu (belaying straight up from the anchors on the rt of the ledge) it's A4. Rap anchors on top; a 20m and a 40m rap to the base, another 45m rap from the base brings you low on the trail! There is a "ridge" route (first pitch 5.10 starts on the side facing the shelter and then veers slightly behind the main face, at a slightly easier grade. . . but this route can get…
Getting there
Jeok Byeok is the red wall visible from Pisandae rest area/mountain hut, about 40 minutes up a nice trail from the entrance to the park. Stay in this hut and you'll be sure to meet climbers. Both times I've climbed Jeok Byeok I met my partners at the shelter! There are topos (in Korean) for Jeok Byeok and the neighboring Janggun Bong in the shelter. Cross the bridge just below the shelter (to your right if you're favcing the cliffs) then take the trail that heads immediately left, up and around to the base. At the end of the trail, there is a huge overhanging boulder, and from here across to the base it's a 5.8 AO approach that everyone ropes up for.
Parking
Jeok Byeok is the red wall visible from Pisandae rest area/mountain hut, about 40 minutes up a nice trail from the entrance to the park.
Before you visit
Most of the bolts are conveniently spaced, a few require a bit of a stretch or a rock climbing move. On a busy day, other parties could be a problem, especially as several climbs overlap or share a belay. A helmet might not be a bad idea.
Recommended equipment
All of the routes are aid; KyoDae and DokJu (and it looks like the others, though I can't be sure), can be done with 20 draws, two 50m ropes, aiders and hooks (or creative use of slings) for each person. Confortable shoes (approach shoes) are all that's necessary unless you're going to try to free climb the few places where it's possible. Extra slings and a knife would enable you to switch out anything questionable, though it seems this is regularly done by the many Koreans who climb here.
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